Dear Reg, You probably know of the sad news about about the planned closing of Smithfield Market. I happened to hear the story on Radio 4’s ‘World at One‘ today (intro at: 23:00, main item: 38:50).
The programme managed to pack in a lot of information in a slot just a few minutes long. One item of interest was the event in 1968, during the Market’s centenary celebrations – the Carcass-Carrying Race by the porters. It made me wonder if anyone might have seen the race. There was a lot of extra information from Peter Twist, who does guided tours of the area. The name seemed some how familiar – possibly somebody you know or have mentioned in the past. One gem was that, after the end of the predecessor (open) market and its livestock, which arrived “on the hoof”, meat came to the new Smithfield as carcasses, delivered by train to a railway station beneath the market. Astounding!
You have probably seen the view (1810) of the old market by Thomas Rowlandson and Augustus Wilby Pugin. The only image available for copying and pasting seems to be the contemporary print version (below) taken from the original. The viewpoint is clear because of the landmarks.
The conversation about the porters’ race brought back memories of the great (though not always tall) hulking chaps who heaved heavy loads around the Market and the adjacent streets. That reminded me of David Challis’s stories of things he overheard on the way to Atlantic House in the mornings. One came from a conversation in the tiny cafeteria in the row of Hart’s shops on Faringdon Road. When David entered, one of the porters was telling two or three others about something he’d witnessed. The plentiful use of asterisks is necessary here.
Porter A: . . . and this f***ing geezer f***ing falls over on the f***ing pavement, doesn’t he? F***ing just lying there. F***ing people gathering round him. Some f***ing bloke asked if he was f***ing p*ssed.
Porter B: And was he p*ssed?
Porter A: Nah! He appeared to be experiencing a cardiac arrest.
David wondered if the terminology might be connected, somehow, with the proximity of St Bartholomew’s Hospital . . .
That little cafeteria reminded me of the much larger eating-room upstairs. The access might have been through the main grocery-provision shop. Sometimes, Gerry Watt and I went over for lunch: slice off the roast-of-the-day, potatoes, cabbage, carrots usually: good filling stuff, especially on winter’s days. Ken Osborn was one of our small band of trusty freelance forms designers during Atlantic House days, along with Cedric Knight, Geoff Fowle, Jeff Carter, Robin Brown, Phil . . . (surname escapes me). Ken liked to come over from Covent Garden (his studio’s location) now and then and to enjoy the lunchtime roast. He called the place “The Greasy Spoon” – first time I ever heard the term.
Enough. Hope the anecdotes raise a smile (or an eyebrow) or two.
Best wishes, Nodge.
Lovely reminiscences, Nodge: thank you. I had indeed seen the sad news. Brought back happy memories of Atlantic House days. And your overheard conversation reminds me of a tale I heard way back, involving a similarly-verbose witness who used copious f-wording up until being asked what was the result of the fracas, when he looked embarrassed and said ‘Err . . . intercourse took place.’
Keep ’em coming. Best wishes, Reg.
Philip Marriage adds: Yes sad news about Smithfield Market after all these years. Coincidentally I had a walk around our old haunts last April. Each year I organise a lunch with some of my teenage friends from Enfield and this year we met in a restaurant off Lincoln’s Inn. Afterwards I strolled around Holborn, the new Atlantic House, Farringdon, Smithfield and ended up in our old favourite – Bleeding Heart Yard. The day was wet and dull and although I took a few photos they were all rather drab but it was interesting retracing our steps of earlier years.
Adrian Young – our Antipodean designer friend from the early 1970s – did a similar walk in September with his wife Audrey whilst staying in London and sent these photos
That’s the new Atlantic House in the background on the left.
Part of Smithfield has been revamped for the new London Museum and should be opening in 2026. Today’s story from ‘Spitalfield’s Life‘ also reflects on the market’s closure.
I don’t recall the Carcass-Carrying Race (that must have been quite a sight) but I do remember the Christmas Auctions when all the left-over turkeys and chickens were sold off cheap. Alan Stephen’s always came away with a huge Christmas bird and had a difficult journey home, tucked under his arm on a crowded commuter train to the sticks.
My word, a barrowful of memories there Philip! Reg.
John Eason adds: Holborn Viaduct and surroundings including ‘The Fleet’ river featured in tonight’s repeat episode of ‘New Tricks’ on U & drama.
Philip Marriage adds: I’ve just watched it on demand (New Tricks: Series 11 Episode 5 “London Underground”) and, as you said, it shows some familiar views of Ludgate, Farringdon and even the new Atlantic House at one point. It was interesting to learn the origination of some of the local place names – Saffron Hill for example. Also interesting (for me) was the opening scene with the chap walking along the South Bank, across the Thames, ending up in Spitalfields when he entered the forbidding door of No 4 Princelet Street. It’s often used for filming and indeed the last time I passed that way there was a photographer and model outside. Never watched ‘New Tricks’ before.
Ah, Princelet Street – these memories will run and run . . . Reg.
John Eason adds: I seem to remember that Princelet Street is a short walk from Aldgate East station, and next to that used to stand ‘The Old Red Lion’, where my Rugby Club used to hold evening meetings where the entertainment was young ladies taking off their clothes. Happy days!
Adrian Young adds: This says something about those who worked nearby. I remember going to one of the cafes/windows most lunchtimes to buy a roast beef and chutney sandwich which was delicious. Just typing those words has made my mouth water. I usually went with someone but my memory fails me as to who it was. Any suggestions are welcome.
Nodge Carnegie adds: Great to hear from Adrian. It’s good that the memories prompted one of his, and a reminder of how good the local (early-days) take-away food usually was. Here’s my first, from my first (completely unexpected – Thanks, JW!) day in the GD studio (11.2.70). Lunchtime. What to do about food? Ask Bobbie! She advised me that there was a good little sandwich place at the other end of the Hart’s Corner row of shops, closer to the Viaduct. Vivid memory of that first purchase – prompting my taste-buds now! – roast lamb and mustard on white sliced bread. Now, how many of those ingredients would be commonly-available from the modern equivalents of that modest little establishment?